Eurafrika Pt 8 - Arusha National Park

After lunch, we headed for Arusha National Park. I did not each much lunch as my appetite was still missing (I would only rediscover it on safari). I was, however, soothed by a local ginger beverage called 'Stoney' - sweeter than ginger ale.

My family hopped in the Leopard Tours jeep and we were off. I mention the name of the company as is I have heard from friends nightmares of crooked tour companies: stories of jeeps running out of gas, stranding its scared occupants in the middle of the ever-hungry Serengeti. Leopard Tours is a very professional operation; in the lobby of the lodge, I had seen a video of their operations, how they maintain the jeeps and so on. If you ever plan on touring Tanzania, I recommend using them.

Riding to Arusha was an adventure in its own right. Abruptly, the road changed from a two-lane paved ribbon, to a dirty, bumpy, roller coaster of a road. And a roller coaster of a ride it was! - A ride that took us past coffee plantations, banana trees with midget sized bananas growing underneath their canopies and simple masonry buildings that were ubiquitous over the Northern Tanzanian landscape. This was a rural landscape, but different from the rural I was used to back home. The earth near was different from the dark, black loam of the prairies I was used to: this earth was a rich reddish brown, as if stained with the blood of a violent volcanic past. And there were people; people everywhere! There were woman carry huge items on their heads, children riding tired bikes and men riding into town on simple motorcycles. And instead of an endless flat horizon, we lied in the shadows of the towering Mt. Meru.

And so we arrived at Arusha National Park. Armed rangers welcomed us in. The trees of the plantations had disappeared making way for grassy plains with Mt. Meru hovering over everything; its peak was hidden in the clouds. We stopped briefly at the entrance; there was all kinds of information about the wildlife in the park. A lot of the information was put together by donors, mainly coming from Italy. I looked at the map and saw that great Kilimanjaro lay not too far in the distance. I thought back to my buddy Hunter who had climbed this majestic mountain not too long ago. I told myself that someday I would conquer this mountain - with friends. But not this time; this time I could only hope to get a look of it.

So, my happily hopped back into the Jeep and we drove into the park. The first thing we saw was a group of lazy buffalo lying underneath a withering acacia. We excitedly got out of our seats to get our first glimpse of African wildlife. With the hunter binoculars the picture became a rich tapestry filled with zebras, warthogs, gazelles and giraffes, yes, big tall giraffes in the background. This would prove to be one the least memorable sights of the trip, as we soon be spoiled with wildlife. But, it was our first look, and we excitedly clicked our cameras.

Our guide drove us further into the forest. We stopped so see a group of Colobus Monkeys. They were calmly perched on branches high in the tree canopy. An then all of a sudden, one of them dart off the end a bunch, leap like an acrobat and latch on to the nearest branch for the neighbouring tree. It was quite the dramatic act - and the monkeys performed it so nonchalantly.

We moved out of the forest into a desolate plain. Warthogs, Zebra and a large deer-like species were foraging on what was left. What caught the eye was a parade of mongoose, zooming across the plain kicking up dust. Who knew what their hurry was about, perhaps the prospect of a delicious serpentine meal. And there are plenty of snakes around in Africa, deadly ones too! (W didn't see any that day) In fact, our driver told of us a story where he narrowly avoided the death bite of a Black Mamba, a bite that can kill a man in 7 minutes. Apparently, the snake had slithered through a jeep, and then just slithered on to a herd of wildebeest. He came back a half later and they were all dead.

So our Jeep drove on, through forest, plain and scrub land; it was like a miniature version of East Africa itself. We briefly paused to photograph a cuckoo stately perched on an acacia before heading to the small lakes in this park where we would see the most interesting sight of the day.

Part of me moans the fact that the most interesting thing we saw on our short trip were living garden ornaments. But there were so many of them that I wouldn't do this story justice if they weren't included. The lake we found was coated swamped with flamingos, thousands upon thousands of flamingos that created a pink ring as if the lake were a giant bathtub. The flamingos were feasting of algae that grows off underground streams that feed into the lake. Never have I seen so much pink.

We stopped by the lake to take some pictures of the silly pink birds. In the distance I could see Mt. Kilimanjaro, the roof of Africa, shyly poking its head above the clouds. It towered above like nothing else I have seen before. To think one of my friends and stepped on that peak was an astounding thought, one that made me want to climb the mountain itself.

The trip ended with a visit to one of the park's volcanic craters. We rode up increasingly steep dirt roads. I asked the driver if elephants used the roads we were driving on. It turns out I had it all backwards: we were driving on roads that used to be elephant paths through the woods. Our jeep crossed paths with baboons, bushbucks (like deer) and blue monkeys. We got to the crater rim and were treated to a spectacular view, though one in retrospect that would be dwarfed by the crater at Ngorongoro.

And so we returned back to our lodge with the first taste of wildlife fresh in our months. I looked out the window and so locals smiling as we went by. We passed a game of soccer, one that I wanted to join in on, but we had to go back to the lodge. There were far more adventures to come.

Eurafrika Pt 7 - Around the Lodge

I was awoken early in the morning by the crow of a rooster. Outside, I heard all kinds of bird cries and cricket chirps. Before going to breakfast, I turn on the TV and flip through a few channels. There's a soccer reality show about 8 African players trying to make it big; a reality show where there's something actually life-changing at stake.

I leave our room for the main lodge for breakfast with my dad. We walk by a tree with woven birds nests hanging from it like lanterns. My dad remarks that the main lodge looks a lot something our of Jurassic Park and I concur.

We get to the breakfast buffet. There's plenty of food variety: salad, tropical fruits, cereals and breads. The hot breakfast is English breakfast fare and doesn't look too appetizing. It tastes even less so. I eat little as my stomach struggles to adjust to the foreign food. This would, unfortunately, be just the beginning.

With nothing left to do in the morning, I decide to wander and explore the lodge's environs. The lodge is surrounding by a coffee plantation and I hear some kid's voices coming from the other side of a hedge wall. I climb up a nearby hill to see what's going on. The kids see me and I give them a friendly 'Hujambo' ('Hi' in Swahili). Some of the kids smile back at me, some of the run away.

I have an idea to entertain the kids. I go back into my room and try to find things I can juggle. I end up using a little water container and two folded socks. I go back to the kids and start juggling; they're amused. They leave to continue picking berries; I leave to explore the grounds some more.

I walk through some of the coffee plantation. I had never seen a coffee plant before - essentially, they're bushes. I then walk back to the main lodge, testing the little Swahili I know on the locals I walk by. I meet up with my dad and he's talking with one of the workers there. His name is Benson.

There are a bunch of Marabou Storks lurking around the lodge, completely unafraid of the humans that live there. I walk right up to one and it doesn't respond at all. They look like flying death Benson tells us that the storks feed on bones and have special stomach juices to digest them. I'm not surprised: things that eat death tend to look like death. He then grabs some scraps from the kitchen and throws them at the storks; they go crazy.

After feeding the storks, the conversation then switches to football (soccer). Benson says that Tanzania is the strongest team in East Africa (I find out later that East Africa is the weakest region in all of Africa). I find out that be both have quite a bit in common in that we both like Chelsea and that our favorite player is Frank Lampard. I mention a Tanzanian player, Nizar Khalfan, who plays for my cousin's team and he recognizes the name. Football truly is the world's language!

After a quiet morning, we headed to lunch. In the afternoon, we would be getting our first taste of wildlife: Arusha National Park.

Eurafrika Pt 6 - Tanzanian TV

I have just arrived for the first time on a new country, in a new continent, in the developing world.

Naturally, the first thing I do is lie down and watch TV.

Maybe it's old habits die hard, but one of the things I love to do when I travel is to see what's on. There are a dozen channels: half of them are in English, half of them are in Swahili. I like the rhythm of the language; it's very pleasant sounding.

The English-language channels are news and sports channels. I see BBC and Al Jazeera, but no CNN. I watch news on Al Jazeera for a while; they've really used terrorism to emerge as a global news brand. They've hired British and American anchors; it's all very professional.

I then turn to the sports channels. Most of the sports feeds come from a South African based sports network called Super Sports. They're covering the U 20 World Cup (soccer) final between Ghana and Brazil. I'm rooting for the Africans. I notice one of the TV personalities is wearing a Yankees baseball cap. I wonder if he follows baseball or just likes American iconography.

The game is tied 0-0. Ghana is down a man, yet they are still getting their chances. It is deep into extra time. Brazil gets some great chances to end it, but the Ghanaian goalkeeper brilliantly denies them. Extra time ends 0-0. We're going to a shootout. Both teams are exhausted.

Brazil shoots first; they make their first three shots. Ghana misses their third. After both teams exchange misses, Brazil's Maicon steps up for the win...

BUT he skies it! Well over the crossbar!

Ghana's going to win it now, and sure enough the next shooter makes his easily. I love how the Ghanaian keeper anticipates where the shot is going and moves there instead of just diving. He guesses right again meaning Ghana can win it with the next shot. And they do as the young Ghanaian coolly slides it past the keeper going the wrong way. It's the first time that an African country has won such a major international trophy.

I headed to bed, basking in African triumph. The next day, I would be basking in the African sun.

Eurafrika Pt 5 - Touchdown in Tanzania

As we got off the plane, I felt like for an instant like Jack Bauer in 24, walking on the lit tarmac in the darkness of a foreign land. The air was warm and still, not too humid and not too dry. It then dawned on me that in less than 24 hours I had tripled the number of continents I had set foot in.

Entering the terminal was like going back in time. Everything basic, plain, but functional; it was like visiting a Canadian airport back in the 1950s. The terminal was crowded with other researchers and tourists filling out visa applications and H1N1 forms. After getting our visas, we collected our luggage (fortunately nothing lost) and made our way to our shuttles.

Stepping out of the terminal I was struck by how different the vegetation was. The stars were different too; I realized this was my first time in the Southern Hemisphere as well. The first animal I saw was a dog with swollen nipples trotting across the parking lot, probably to go and feed its pups.

Our family hopped into the shuttle van and we drove away - on the left side. The road out of the airport was lit and lined with telecom billboards. It reminded me of long trips across the prairies our family went on when I was a little kid, seeing the dark, lonely prairie landscape go by. The difference here was the occasional person or donkey walking along the side of the road.

As we got closer to our lodge, paved, lit roads made way for un-paved, bumpy, dark roads. There were always people around at the side of the road. After traveling through an unlit cathedral of trees, we had finally arrived at the lodge.

The Lodge was a spectacular sight. We were staying at accomodations that were about as luxurious as it gets: the lodge had internet and a pool and our room had a TV and a jacuzzi-tub. This would not be an authentic African experience, and to be honest, I wasn't really prepared for one either. Nonetheless, the next few days would be the most stimulating of my life.

Eurafrika Pt 4 - Down to Africa

Our family boarded the plane. It was a 777, a real beauty of plane with engines the size of garages. Dutch people have a way of speaking English that I find hilarious: our pilot spoke with a rhythm like that of Captain Kirk. I was tired, but filled with the energy that comes with seeing new things and visiting strange lands.

I looked out the window and all I saw was giant cotton swab-like clouds covering the face of the Earth. I'm reminded of a climate science article I read that talked about how cosmic rays increased cloud cover and how this had a big effect on the Earth's climate. Looking out the window I could see why: the clouds reflected most of the sun's bright rays.

As our plane ventured south there was a clearing of a clouds and I was able to see the European landscape for the first time. I saw the Alps. I saw Venice lying in the middle of its azure lagoon. I saw the length of the Italian boot until our plane ventured over the candy-blue waters of the Mediterranean. You could see boats and white trails seemingly standing still, seemingly stuck in time.

Eventually the blue Mediterranean abruptly ended with the light brown sands of North Africa. I was over Africa for the first time, looking down below at white roads radiating and occasional green central-pivot irrigation farms that interrupted the monotony of an endless desert.

I dozed off. When I woke up, all I could see was clouds and the dark African jungles below. Not a single light or sign of civilization. This was new territory.

Eurafrika Pt. 3 - Schiphol - The Airport that Never Ends

Me, my mom and my dad exit the plane after our trans-Atlantic flight. It's around 4 AM and we have just touched down in Amsterdam. We make our way over to the main concourse area to get some breakfast. It takes a while to get there; Schiphol is a gigantic airport: it takes 38 min to walk from one end of the terminal to the other. My dad explains how it was a smart move by the Netherlands to build such a big airport and be a global aviation hub. I yawn; I've crossed seven time zones, and even though I don't feel jet-lagged I am tired. I have lost all sense of time.

My ear starts to pick up languages other than English. I'm in line at a coffee shop behind a group of cute Dutch girls. I try striking up a conversation first in English than in German. I fail. I should've known that while German and Dutch are similar languages, the Dutch are not too fond of Germans or their language (for obvious historical reasons). Perhaps, I could've played up the fact I was from Canada (where the liberators came from). I'll leave that for a next time.

Me and my family eat up and make our way to our second 7+ hour flight. For the first time I feel international. I begin to sense how small the world is, that at any given moment I live on the same sphere as the one that my friends are sleeping on back home, that Barack Obama is winning a Nobel Prize somewhere on, that people in Angola are struggling to feed their families on. It is a humbling feeling.

What will I feel once I'm in Africa?

Eurafrika Pt 2 - Across the Atlantic

So I get back to the airport and we take off across the Atlantic. It's my first time flying on a two-aisled plane. I'm sitting in a window seat beside Bruce (or was it Bill - I'm terrible with names...), a middle-aged guy from Albuquerque heading to Bonn, Germany for a electric-tools conference. I share with him the little that I know about Alburquerque, namely that the Isotopes are from there and that they recently set up a commuter train line called the RailRunner. He is astounded that I know this obscure fact. I tell him I'm a transport geek; he laughs.

For my first flight over the Atlantic, I was really hoping to actually get to see the big blue ocean, to only see the sea in all directions. I imagined being Joshua Slocum sailing around the world in search of adventure.

I didn't get to; it was dark and cloudy. My buddy Julian told me that they have plenty of in-flight movies on long flights like this one and fortunately he was not wrong. I watched three movies: Transformers 2, The Hangover and an episode of The Office. The plot for Transformers 2 was surprisingly not bad (though unsurprisingly had many holes in it); The Hangover, though ridiculous, had an interesting way of presenting a narrative; and The Office was just plain hilarious. I slept the rest of the flight.